Modern Warfare 2 Burst fire to automatic mod

This is basically the same as my cod4 mod, in fact it is, but I remade a diagram for easy assembly and it has a parts list right on it. I've been told it works with the modern warfare 2 FAMAS, but they didn't unlock anything else to use it. Also shown on the bottom is where you hook up a jump shot button :). Good luck everyone with this mod, comment if you like it.

LM555 Timer rapid fire circuit CoD4 (Turbo Y+RT Button)

Above is the neatly revised circuit of this mod. It is what I designed which lead the way for people to create the "jitter mod" for full auto m16. All you need to do is make this mod and hold the button and the trigger at the same time to make the m16 full automatic.

BELOW: OLD DESIGN, NO NEED FOR TRANSISTORS OR ON OFF SWITCH!

EDIT, WIRE PIN 3 TO ONE SIDE OF BUTTON AND THE OTHER SIDE GOES TO Y, YOU DONT NEED TO HOOK UP ANYTHING TO THE RIGHT TRIGGER, JUST POWER GROUND AND THE BUTTON HOOKED TO Y. MAKE POTENTIOMETER EXTERNAL. HOLD BUTTON AND RT AND YOU WILL HAVE FULL AUTO M16.

I personally discovered this mod on my wired controller that I shorted out with a USB soldering iron. I then bought a wired matrix controller the next day, and tried adding this mod. I made the Y stopped working because I pulled the wires by accident and the Y button trace was badly damaged, so much so that I gave up on it and revisited the issue the other day and finally fixed the problem.

I then built it for the Wireless CG controller, when I saw that CoD4 has patched its rapid fire for semi automatic weapons, This made my regular 555 timer mod almost useless for the pistol, and I use desert eagles in every class now. Basically what this mod does, is when I press a button on my controller, and hold RT at the same time, the m16 in cod4 is shooting full auto, similar to a M4 carbine. This also makes the player model look like hes fumbling with the gun and not aiming down the sight. Basically this is like carrying a G3 and a M16 at the same time and its very effective at close range and becomes less of an advantage at longer ranges.



If you have any questions on the diagram just ask, I made a thread on xbox-scene:
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691655

The lower transistor has 2 legs connected (where I drew the grey dot across the legs). It might be hard to find those specific transistors because I got them out of scrapped circuit boards, but you could just google them to see their characteristics and just find a similar one, thats how I found the right parts trial and error. The power points for the chip are not the usual ones used, you can use the ones to the left and right of the headset pins, I just found these to be more out of the way of closing the case as I don't have 30awg wire.

If someone could pull this off on a PIC 12f683 let me know I just started working with these. Also don't complain about my wiring being sloppy, I cannot find 30awg wrapping wire anywhere locally! Donate :)

360 Controller FPS Response Trigger Mod

This is a very good mod that I've used for a while and actually performed to a friends controller as well. This isn't "turbo" but is better is many ways. Basically, around half way down when the trigger, the controller makes the gun shoot, so you don't have to pull much more then that to shoot rapidly, so I made an external addon that allows you to use that for your advantage and only move the trigger as far as you have to move it. This is great for the G3 in CoD4 people even accused me of turboing because it fires with great speed. It also works for many other guns, and because it lowers the movement distance, could improve reaction time and accuracy.

One necessary material is hot glue, or some kind of glue to hold onto the controller. From experience, the low temp hot glue works better then high temp for this purpose, although both work you will need more for a high temp glue gun. You can get the same light blue hot glue gun I have for $3 at Wal-Mart (or any craft store) and don't forget the glue.

Step one: Find

a pen, with a nice flat and wide clip on the side, break it off, and remove any plastic coming out of the bottom, I just took it off by using a blade from scissors to make it flat. Or, find something of similar shape. Score the bottom part of the clip that will go towards the trigger to strengthen the hot glue's bond when you glue it against the trigger.

Next, we will make the bracket, so you can make sure the pen clip isn't too long and trim it. before gluing it, I have two designs that have worked, using either a Uniball pen's metal clip and some pliers, or two cut off Ethernet cable tips.

Option one: Ethernet Tips

You can use two tips from a scrapped Ethernet cable, just cut the wire as short as you can and make sure none is coming out of the shell, if you have to snip into it to get any extra wire out. I've had success with a phone jack cable but it wasn't as secure.

Option two: Metal Pen Clip

Use the metal clip from a "Uniball" pen's cap. As long as you have 2 pairs of pliers (needlenose are better)you can bend the clip into the perfect bracket, much cleaner looking then the Ethernet tips, but they are equally effective.

Putting it all together:
Ethernet Tip method:

To ensure the trigger clip isn't too long, hold the first Ethernet tip closest to the controller, clip side away from the controller and down. If the trigger clip is too long, cut it with a saw, wire cutters, or cut it with some strong scissors.

Hold the trigger clip on the trigger to make sure it almost gets past the outer edge of the Ethernet tip, if it does it will stop it from moving up and down.

Both Methods:

Hot glue a flat pen clip that is longer then the trigger on top of the trigger, I just put a good line of glue down the trigger and held the clip right there and let it cool. Make sure you don't get glue on the sides of the trigger, or into the crack!

Now, go onto your Xbox, and go into a split screen game, or whatever you need to do to see the threshold of the trigger, pull it down slowly and look how far it takes to register a shot, and take an exacto knife, or sharp object, and make a small groove on the corner of the trigger right where it registers a shot.



For the metal pen clip method bend your clip to the picture to the right, note the ~75-85 degree bend to hold the trigger clip, and the ~10-15 degree bend on the controller side near the loop to fit the contours of the controller, tweak as necessary.

Grab your hot glue gun, and glue the clip so the bottom part near the bend is just after the threshold of the trigger to fire, and that the top is before it, you may have to bend your clip slightly if needed.

For the Ethernet tip method, hold the first tip in the correct position under the trigger, and make the clip fall upon it and just barely go past the fire threshold, and glue it down. Do the glue all the way around it except for the side facing the trigger.

Take the second Ethernet clip, and cut the little arm half way down if you want, and then put it on top holding the trigger clip before it reaches the threshold and glue it down, making sure not to get glue on the part where the trigger clip falls.

That's it, remember, the smaller the gap you can make the better! Happy modding!

Dual speed/Single speed Rapid Fire for Xbox 360 controllers using a LM3909, 1-2 capacitors, and 1-2 switches.

This mod has worked on my and my wired cl controller, and since I first hooked the circuit to my wireless matrix controller and saw that it rapid fired, it probably works with most if not all models. I discovered this mod all on my own, and I've googled many times to see if I could do it but nobody else ever did. Back in school, I made an electronics project which consisted of a D battery, a LED, A 220uf capacitor, and a LM3909 IC chip, and it was sitting on my shelf for 4 years blinking at me, and when I saw a mod online using a LM555 timer and a lot more components then this, I was interested if this could work as good or better, and after doing this mod, its much better because rapid fire on the trigger is possible. This was free for me to make, and since I discovered this, I feel its my duty to the modding community to release this method to the world! :) It's saved me lots of money, but not the time and effort of figuring out how.

Although production has stopped of this chip, if you can find one somewhere like ebay they will most likely be between 10 and 15 dollars, which is quite expensive but still worth it when you see how much a modded controller can cost, or other techniques for mods that I will link to later. If you have a LM3909 and you want to mod your controller, you will be very happy at the results. If you dont have this chi All you will need to find is a capacitor and a switch to turn it on and off.

Materials and tools used:

• LM3909 IC
• 10uf 16v capacitor(the lower uf value the better, but this one worked the best for me. I found this in a circuit board I took out of something I had laying around, capacitors state the value on the side.)
  
• 47uf 16v capacitor(optional, I added a switch to switch between my 10uf and this one for slower auto, works great for m14 in cod4, and it shoots about as fast as I can when I'm pulling the trigger, but without all the effort.)
  
• Thin Wire, most people reccomend 30AWG but I just took mine from a scrap USB cable or old controller cable
• On off button, slider switch or toggle switch (toactivate and deactivate the rapid fire. I got two small switches out of a cordless phone.
  
• OPTIONAL Second Small slider switch or Toggle switch with 3 prongs (for dual mode)
• OPTIONAL small Rumble motor from original xbox controller s (to maintain rumble while saving space for the mod to go, if not you can be more creative where you put your components.
• Soldering iron
• Solder
• OPTIONAL Desoldering bulb/pump (I used mine to take capacitors and switches for this out of scrapped circuit boards)
• Hot glue gun (or whatever kind of glue you can use to attach a switch and components inside the controller, as well as putting on top of solder points you've already tested to save them from damage)
• Screwdrivers to open your controller, wired controllers are small phillips screws. Wireless controllers use screws intended for a torx 8 security screwdriver, but if you get a small flathead and jam it in the screw the post will either break off allowing you to use a torx 8 strandard screwdriver, or it will just open up with the flat head.
• Power drill, needlenose plyers, dremel, or anything to cut holes for the switches and remove plastic from the shell if needed, if you dont have anything like this go outside with your soldering iron and melt the plastic after you've evdone erything else but dont breathe it in, then carefully use a knife or a file to clean up the edges!
  

1. Plug in your soldering iron and your hot glue gun if you have it.
2. Open up your controller, theres a screw under the sticker in the middle, have the face buttons facing down so they dont spill out
3. Take out the board of the controller
   
4. Find the right trigger pins and solder a wire from the middle pin, solder the other end of it to pin 4 of the LM3909.
5. From pin 8 of the LM3909, solder a wire to an outside pin of one of your switches
6. From the switch solder the middle pin to the power positive pin near the headset shown below
7. Connect a wire between pin 1 and pin 5 of the LM3909
8. Solder another wire coming off of pin 1, and solder the other end to the positive lead of your capacitor indicated by a white line on the casing, if you're using two capacitors for dual mode, then connect both of thier positive leads together with the wire you just soldered to pin 1.
9. If you're not making a dual mode switch, solder the negative lead of the capacitor to pin 2. For dual mode,the negative leads on the capacitors can be wired to the outside pins of your other switch and then pin 2 of your IC is connected to the middle pin of the switch, creating a dual mode switch
10. Decide if you want to keep both of the rumble motors or not, some people get rid of the smaller one, or hot glue the IC to the board, but my solution to the space problem was to take a smal rumble motor from an original xbox controller s, because of its taller and skinnier size. The wiring for it has the same connector, but you have to switch the two wires over because they are opposite of what the 36o controller has. I took some needle nose plyers and removed as much plastic as I could to fit it straight up in the controller shell, and removed a little from the bottom shell for it to move.
11. Test your switches and your on off switch in a game, and if they work hot glue all the connections for strength, then put your components in a place they can fit, leaving the switches for last.
12. For the switches I drilled holes about 1 inch in from the end of each side of the small grey bottom part of the shell near the second circle from the end, and then removed enough plastic for them to fit there, but my switches were pretty small, you could put them between the D-pad and the right stick, or just hot glued to the outside somewhere if you really cant figure it out.
13. Thats it, put your controller together and make sure both the rumble motors work if you left both in there, have fun being an elite turbo modder!
    

The wire with the X on it isn't neccisary, and in the picture above theres no switches attached yet and having the mod always on isnt neccisary, but below there is after I put switches in and my rumble motor from the controller s.

Links, inspiration, and other tutorials for the lights.

http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=677389 All the other kinds of rapid fire I've seen, and they are either a 555 timer, and a button for turbo, or a picaxe chip that you have to build a programmer for, program it, and install for quite a bit more money.

http://www.llamma.com/xbox360/mods/xbox%20360%20Controller%20LED%20Mod.htm This is how I wired up my guide button, except I took the positive power from the same lead as the mod so it turns red when it's in rapid fire mode and grounded it under the guide button as shown on that site.

Universal GelTabz, and how to put the wii geltab ontop of a regular one

I recommend the Gel Tabz because you can grip the thumbstick better, and because it makes them longer. I got them from gamestop for $5.00 they were called "universal gel tabz". They havent broken and I've had them for over a month and I think they've improved my gameplay or at least my aiming. If you're serious about playing FPS on a console, I would concider these things.

I've recently discovered that you can turn the wii geltab inside out and then carefully flip it back over on top of the right thumb stick you will have yourself a whole lot of extra grip. Wii geltabz on 360 are good becuase they have a smaller surface with taller bumps, and it also makes the controller taller for added accuracy.

They come with two large ones for ps3 or xbox 360, and one small one for wii, or to put over your right thumbstick like I did.

360 D-pad mod to improve performance

I did this mod on my controller because right out of the box the 360 controller is horrible for fighting games, or typing things in with the d-pad due to its design.

It's quite simple this mod stops the d-pad from hitting the side wall as well as adds a spacer between the d-pad and the membrane on the board which improves springiness. You take all the components out of the controller, and unscrew the 2 screws on the d-pad and then use the screwdriver to pop the cap off of the top part.

Now, you take sandpaper and go around the outside of the ring around the d-pad, and take off as much as possible.

Using a plastic cap from pringles, nuts, or in my case the top of a tupperware lid, make a circle shape out of plastic to go directly under the plastic thing you took screws out of to take the d-pad off unscrewed, and then add small hole in the middle of it for the post to go through. Reassemble the controller and you're good to go.

I was originally aware of this mod from http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Fix-the-d-pad-on-the-Xbox-360-control-pad-mor/

Also, in the picture of my controller the thumbsticks are fitted with universal geltabz bought from gamestop for $5, they are a great product and are like a mod but store bought they truly make a difference.

DIY Duke or S sticks on 360 or switching the sticks

Difficulty: Easy
Controller: Any 360 controller
Details: The original Xbox had superior thumb sticks, and they probably got used less so they aren't as worn out as your 360's sticks, so consider the following. All you need is an old original Xbox controller, some sandpaper, a wood file or a dremel, and tools and techniques to open the controller, that I will show below. You can also do this by just swapping the left and right sticks for some extra grip if ones more worn out then the other.

TOOLS:
For a wireless controller, a Torx 9 security bit screwdriver or small flathead screwdriver that fits inside of the screw. Also keep a regular Torx 9 screwdriver handy in case the post in the middle of the screw falls off. All the screws are visable except the one under the barcode under the battery, unscrewing this will void your controller for trade in at gamestop or other game stores.


For a wired controller, any small phillips head screwdriver will work as long as its around the right size. You will need the same phillips head screwdriver for the original Xbox controller as well.

On both of the controllers, there is a hidden screw under a sticker in the middle of the controller.

Opening is as simple as removing all the screws and keeping it upside down, and then pulling up on the bottom shell, exposing the back of the circuit board, the triggers and the rumble motors. Your controller will look something like this:


Without removing the rumble motors, you should flip the circuit board over and over them, so you can get to the thumb sticks, all without making the buttons fall out of the controller. Then take out the 360 thumb sticks.

Now take apart the original Xbox controller with a phillips screwdriver and take the sticks out of it. You will notice the rounded plastic part is larger then on the 360 sticks, take sandpaper, a dremel or a wood file and sand it down to about the same size as a 360's sticks, or you wont have the full range of motion for the thumbstick.

Put the thumbsticks onto the 360 controller, and make sure it has full motion and doesn't hit the left bumper button or anything else.

Putting the controller back together may give you a hard time, keep the buttons faced down, and if it doesn't go together the first time try putting the rumble motors in the slots on the other shell and then putting it together.

Now, do the same thing to the original xbox controller, its the same process, and the controller will still work with 360 sticks just fine.

Happy gaming.

DIY 360 turbo controller for free

Difficulty: Medium
Controller: Old "matrix" style
Details: This mod is to be used with older wireless controllers that you've had for a while, the newer style they have recently released has a different board in it. It gives you rapid fire on your right trigger by using a button. This rapid fire works when AA batteries are slightly drained, and when the rechargable battery is 100% charged it does not work. It also doesn't work while the controller is charging. This mod does not work Call of Duty 5, but it does work with Call of Duty 4. This will only work if you are 1st player.


I take no responsibility for you breaking your controller, hurting yourself, breaking your xbox, getting banned for mods on xbox live, or anything else.

Tools required:

• A soldering iron with solder
• A small button, or momentary switch with 2 wires attached to it, you can salvage these from really old game controllers like I did, cd rom drives, electronics, and even toys.
  
• For a wireless controller, a Torx 9 security bit screwdriver or small flathead screwdriver that fits inside of the screw. Also keep a regular Torx 9 screwdriver handy in case the post in the middle of the screw falls off. All the screws are visable except the one under the barcode under the battery, unscrewing this will void your controller for trade in at gamestop or other game stores.
  

• Optional: Hot glue, depending on the button you may or may not need any glue.
• Some small gauge wire to use to run to the button
  
• A momentary switch, I used a double switch from a really old serial connection PC controller that had two shoulder buttons on each side, and they had 3 wires, and I found the ground (by trial and error testing the controller) and soldered the other two wires together.

You can buy a button at radio shack for under 2 dollars, and if you dont have a soldering iron, solder, or wire they can probably help you with that too. Wal-mart and craft stores carry hot glue guns.

Most tutorials say how to buy a button and put it coming out of the inside, possibly removing a rumble motor, there's an easier way. Heres a picture of the back of my controller, theres two wires going into the bottom plate of it leading to two solder points on the controller board.

To make a space in the bottom part of the shell just use a dremel, or a wood file, and make a little semi circle hole in the side right where I did where the wires are coming out in the picture.

I just melted a hole there with my soldering iron, but melting plastic inside isnt a good idea, so if you do decide this is do it out a window, outside, or under an oven hood. I take no responsibility for what happens if you do melt plastic and get hurt, because saying you can melt plastic doesn't mean you should.

I then just taped them on and tested them, a few days later I discovered a glue gun sitting around and it was perfectly solid on the controller, just a dab under it and around it on 3 sides just not on the battery side because theres no space for the glue. Cover all the wires too.

The soldering is quick and easy, make sure to put solder on the end of your soldering iron and on the end of the wire before applying to the board. Don't hold the soldeirng iron on the board too long or you may burn out the LED, solder to the bottom lead of the 1st player LED not the top.

Here is a video tutorial I found on Youtube showing the operation of soldering