Above is the neatly revised circuit of this mod. It is what I designed which lead the way for people to create the "jitter mod" for full auto m16. All you need to do is make this mod and hold the button and the trigger at the same time to make the m16 full automatic.BELOW: OLD DESIGN, NO NEED FOR TRANSISTORS OR ON OFF SWITCH!
EDIT, WIRE PIN 3 TO ONE SIDE OF BUTTON AND THE OTHER SIDE GOES TO Y, YOU DONT NEED TO HOOK UP ANYTHING TO THE RIGHT TRIGGER, JUST POWER GROUND AND THE BUTTON HOOKED TO Y. MAKE POTENTIOMETER EXTERNAL. HOLD BUTTON AND RT AND YOU WILL HAVE FULL AUTO M16.I personally discovered this mod on my wired controller that I shorted out with a USB soldering iron. I then bought a wired matrix controller the next day, and tried adding this mod. I made the Y stopped working because I pulled the wires by accident and the Y button trace was badly damaged, so much so that I gave up on it and revisited the issue the other day and finally fixed the problem.
I then built it for the Wireless CG controller, when I saw that CoD4 has patched its rapid fire for semi automatic weapons, This made my regular 555 timer mod almost useless for the pistol, and I use desert eagles in every class now. Basically what this mod does, is when I press a button on my controller, and hold RT at the same time, the m16 in cod4 is shooting full auto, similar to a M4 carbine. This also makes the player model look like hes fumbling with the gun and not aiming down the sight. Basically this is like carrying a G3 and a M16 at the same time and its very effective at close range and becomes less of an advantage at longer ranges.
If you have any questions on the diagram just ask, I made a thread on xbox-scene:http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=691655
The lower transistor has 2 legs connected (where I drew the grey dot across the legs). It might be hard to find those specific transistors because I got them out of scrapped circuit boards, but you could just google them to see their characteristics and just find a similar one, thats how I found the right parts trial and error. The power points for the chip are not the usual ones used, you can use the ones to the left and right of the headset pins, I just found these to be more out of the way of closing the case as I don't have 30awg wire.
If someone could pull this off on a PIC 12f683 let me know I just started working with these. Also don't complain about my wiring being sloppy, I cannot find 30awg wrapping wire anywhere locally! Donate :)
